Cheapside to
Cuero 236 15
miles
Shannon
woke us up at 6:00 a.m. after a very solid four
hours of sleep. But once again we spent way too
long getting up, getting the boat packed, and eating
breakfast. By the time we put the boat back into
the water under the Cheapside Bridge, it was 7:15
a.m. During the night we would lose eleven spots,
and fall back to 79th place.
There
was still a light fog hovering on the water, the
morning was still cool, and the water and the air
were as still and calm as a postcard. My favorite
time to paddle is just before and after the sun
rises or sets. We paddled the two miles to the Cuero
Dam effortlessly and slowly, letting
our muscles warm up and stretch out from the arduous
workout from the night before.
We
pulled our canoe out on river-right, and saw another
team carrying their canoe towards the dam wall.
There were several large fallen trees obstructing
the path to the dam, but fortunately, one of them
was at just the right height to slide our canoe
across and rest it on both the tree and the dam
wall at the same time.
We
lost about 15 minutes on the dam waiting on the
team in front of us. They did not have a rope tied
to their canoe, and were trying to find a way to
lower it (about 20') without dropping it. After
they cleared the dam, Marty and I worked together
to lower the boat down so that the bow was resting
on the ground below, then he scrambled down the
conveniently placed ladder and walked the bow out
as I lowered the stern with the rope.
We
carried the boat about 50 yards down river before
we put back in. The canoe in front had not started
paddling, and we passed them as soon as we put paddles
to water. The remaining 13 miles to the Cuero
236 checkpoint were uneventful. The water
below the dam, while not standing still, was much
slower than we had anticipated. We made better time
than we thought though, and reached the checkpoint
at about 10:00 a.m.
Feeling
refreshed and strong, we made our shortest pit stop
of the race, only stopping long enough to grab two
fresh water jugs. We both stepped out of the boat
for about 5 minutes to stretch. I told Shannon to
meet us at Thomaston with two more water jugs, and
we were out of Cuero 236 at 10:12 a.m. Our
split for the Cheapside to Cuero 236 leg was 2:57,
which was the 32nd best split time overall. Despite
our best split time so far, we only passed two boats,
moving up to 77th place overall.
Cuero 236 to
Victoria City Park 40
miles
Ever
since we left Luling, we had been running river
that neither of us had ever seen. Having done the
Texas Water Marathon in 2002, it felt good to be
on a section of river that I was somewhat familiar
with. Prior to TWS 2003, I had run Staples to Luling
many times, Tivoli to Sea Drift once, and Cuero
236 to Victoria City Park once.
Again,
this section of the river was largely uneventful
for us. We passed four boats before we reached the
Thomaston Bridge,
where we stopped for about 5 minutes-just long enough
for Shannon to give us two fresh water jugs. We
told her that we didn't need her to stop at Nursery,
and that we would just see her at Victoria City
Park. We asked the other teams how far the next
boat was in front of us, and they said about 20
minutes.
Shortly
after leaving Thomaston, the wind started to pick
up a little, which helped with the immense heat
of the afternoon, but was slowing our progress considerably.
Off in the distance we could see large clouds forming.
We
saw the boat (Mike and Shannon in boat #66, Tandem
Unlimited) that was ahead of us, and passed them
while they took a break on a gravel bar. One of
the guys was lying down on his back with his arm
covering his face. He looked wiped out, while his
teammate looked anxious to get back in the water.
I
had been maintaining my energy levels quite well
so far in the race
eating plenty of food before
I crashed, and drinking fluid constantly. However,
somewhere between Thomaston and Nursery I hit a
huge wall of fatigue. I sucked down a GU and a bottle
of Gatorade, and then ate my last pack of cheese
crackers.
But
my arms still felt like dead weights. Finally, I
told Marty that I needed to get out and walk for
five minutes. We found a long, flat gravel beach
on river-right, and pulled out right next to the
partial remains of a rotting cow carcass. Had we
not already passed 20-30 other dead cows, we might
have been disgusted.
We
got out, and Marty used the bow line to pull the
canoe through the water while I walked slowly behind
on the rocky shore. We walked about 200 yards, and
were just getting ready to put back in when boat
#66 passed us. The 10-minute break seemed to help
me tremendously. I don't know if the carbohydrates
had finally kicked in, or if I just needed to quit
paddling for that short spell
but I felt much
better as we paddled away.
We
re-passed boat #66 after about a mile; they would
stay about a ¼ mile behind us until Nursery.
I hate being passed by another boat, so having #66
trail us so closely was a great motivator to keep
paddling hard.
When
we passed Nursery,
I was surprised to see Shannon there. I yelled at
her as we passed that we were fine, and to meet
us at City Park.
The
final 13 miles to City Park were much more difficult
than I could have imagined. The water had slowed,
with fewer fast sections than the last several miles.
Also the wind had increased to about 20-25 miles
an hour, and was hitting us directly in the face.
We tried to use the banks and trees to shield us
from the wind as much as possible, but found little
relief.
This
section of river provides some of the best scenery
of the entire race, including some steep limestone
ledges, remnants of an old Spanish dam that was
built in the early 1700s, white water, and giant
cypress trees.
About
3-4 miles from Nursery, we rounded the bend and
were about to pass under the last bridge before
Victoria (not sure what bridge it is), when we were
smacked in the face by the approaching storm. The
initial gust of wind nearly stopped the boat completely.
However, as we approached City Park the wind seemed
to die down.
Somewhere
between Thomaston, Marty and I had started to sing.
Loudly and mostly off-key. We sang songs we knew
every word to (George Straight's The Chair), songs
we knew most of the words to (Jimmy Buffet's MargaritaVille),
and songs we only knew the chorus to (Johnny Cash's
Ring of Fire). We even did some improvised rapping
in our best Eminem imitation. It had to be quite
comical to hear/see us coming down the river in
our bright yellow matching jerseys, our big red
boat, and our horrific renditions of songs we barely
knew.
We
sang our way into Victoria
City Park at 6:00 p.m. We asked who the
team captains for boat #66 were, and told them that
they were about 5-10 minutes behind us. Either we
really poured it on after we passed them, or they
really slowed, as they floated up to the boat ramp
about 30 minutes behind us.
Our
goal when we started was merely to finish. Reaching
Victoria City Park and the 200 mile mark
17 hours ahead of the cut-off deadline, we knew
that we would finish. The only question was 'when'.
We discussed our strategy from this point: how much
further did we want to paddle today. Before reaching
City Park, we thought we might stop there for a
couple of hours for a nap, and then paddle through
the night to the Salt Barrier Dam checkpoint.
However,
there appeared to be some very large and dark clouds
still approaching, and we didn't think we'd be able
to get any sleep at Victoria. Besides it was still
too early for a nap. So, after about a 45-minute
break at Victoria City Park, we loaded back into
the canoe, and shoved off. We asked Shannon to meet
us at the Highway 59 Bridge 9 miles down river to
give us some fresh water.
It
was 6:43 p.m. when we left the boat ramp.
Even with the 45 minute break, we had completed
that leg in 8:31, which was the 29th fastest time
overall between Cuero 236 and Victoria Park. I attribute
our best showing to numerous other boats stopping
for a longer rest at Victoria than we did. We had
moved up another six spots to 71st overall. It felt
good to pass boats; it made it feel more like a
race and less like a personal exercise in pain and
humility.
Victoria City
Park to Dupont 27
miles
Marty
and I decided that we would paddle the 27 miles
to Dupont, and rest there for the night. We figured
the trip would take us 5 ½ hours, putting
us at the next checkpoint around 12:45 a.m.
Boat
#66 had pulled out about 5 minutes ahead of us,
but we caught them quickly. However we were not
able to shake them, and they followed us closely
past the Hwy 59 Power Plant, and were right on our
stern when we approached the Hwy
59 Bridge. Neither team could believe
how long that 9 miles had seemed. It took us over
2 hours to reach the bridge, and it was nearly completely
dark.
We
nosed into the bank, where Shannon had to throw
our water jugs to us. We had planned on stopping
here to mount our night-light and eat dinner (we
didn't eat much at Victoria). But there was not
a good spot to stop beneath the bridge, so after
less than 5 minutes we shoved off to look for a
flat bank to stop.
We
found a flat, smooth, sandy beach on river right
about 300 yards down river of the bridge. We stopped
here to get ready for our night paddle. We made
sure we had fresh batteries in our headlamps and
that the spotlight was securely mounted and functioning.
While we were eating our hot MREs, Mike and Shannon
passed us in the dark.
A
couple of miles after we started paddling again,
the fog was starting to get thick on top of the
river, and our lights were having a hard time cutting
through it. We rounded a bend to the right, and
couldn't tell which way the river continued. In
the dark and fog, it looked like it could flow to
the right, left, or down the middle. The current
seemed to be flowing strongest to the left, so we
went that way.
We
had only paddled a couple of hundred yards when
I told Marty that I didn't think we went the right
way. The banks were too narrow, and the water seemed
too shallow. We would later learn that we had paddled
into the Cornfield Cut,
which would have eventually led us nowhere. Luckily
we figured it out quickly and paddled back out to
the main river channel. If you've never been in
the Cornfield Cut at night, we can testify that
it appears to be the breeding ground of all the
Gar on the Guadalupe. We seemed to smack a gar with
every paddle stroke, and had a small gar jump over
the boat, hitting my lap with its tail.
Within
minutes of getting back into the river, we came
up on Mike and Shannon, who were pulled over on
river right. They asked if we knew where Cornfield
Cut was, because they were anxious about accidentally
taking it. Up to this point, we had never heard
of Cornfield Cut, and still did not know that's
what we had just taken.
So,
we paddled slowly behind them for a few miles, but
eventually passed them again. I felt confident paddling
in this section of the river, as it was mostly wide,
and moving slow enough to avoid any hazards that
we might find. We didn't find many at all.
We
had been told about the serpentine stretch of river
that would lead you towards and near the sounds
of the Dupont Plant, then away from it, and then
back towards, it then away again. But we didn't
realize how much of a mental game the growing-then-diminishing
roar would play on our minds and morale. Every time
we thought we were getting close, we would make
the next bend and paddle until we couldn't hear
it anymore. It was odd to paddle with the moon directly
in front of us, and then two bends later, it would
be directly behind us. Had we made two consecutive
lefts or rights, I would have sworn we were paddling
in a circle
but as it was, the river kept turning
predictably left, then right; left, then right.
Somewhere
during the serpentine, we came up on another team...it
was a father/son team in either a kayak or a Tandem
Unlimited boat
I can't really remember now
and it was too dark to tell for sure. They did have
a much better lighting system than us though, so
we followed behind them for several miles. They
were paddling at a very slow pace (I think the dad,
paddling in the stern, was having trouble with his
back, and was not paddling much). We were glad to
slow down our pace a little and just take easy,
long strokes and let them lead the way. However,
the pace soon grew too slow, and we moved passed
them, and told them we would lead for a while. After
two bends in the river though, we lost complete
sight of them.
We
rounded another bend to the left, and were in a
section of river with very strong current. When
we made the nearly 90° left turn, I looked back
to the right and thought I could see the river also
flowing strongly to the right. Boat #66 had warned
us to not take any cuts to the left; to always stay
to the right. So I panicked. I was uncertain, and
thought that we might have taken the wrong cut.
So Marty reluctantly humored me, and we swung the
boat around. This is when we realized the strength
of the current we were in. But we paddled hard upstream,
defying common sense and logic. I kept looking for
the cut to the right that we had come from but couldn't
see it. We paddle hard for about 10 minutes, not
realizing how little progress we were making until
we saw the headlight of the boat we had passed earlier
coming out of the cut about 200 yards ahead of us.
When their light swung around in our direction,
we were convinced that we had previously been heading
in the right direction. We swung our boat around
and cursed ourselves for being foolish enough to
try paddling back up stream.
After
this incident, we formed Rule #4, which stated:
"When in doubt paddle down stream not
up."
As
we rounded another silent bend in the dark, I told
Marty that we had about another 4 miles or 1 hour
to go. But, much like my miss-estimation at Hochheim,
the very next bend found us staring smack at the
lights of the Dupont Swinging
Bridge checkpoint. It was 1:00 a.m.
The
boat behind us pulled in about 5 minutes later,
and we laughed about our upstream paddling adventure.
They said they were a little freaked out when they
saw a headlight coming back at them, and even doubted
themselves for a moment, thinking maybe they
were headed in the wrong direction.
We
were worn out and tired (although not nearly as
much so as the night before). Knowing that we only
had to paddle 35 miles the next day, we told Shannon
to let us sleep until 6:00 a.m. again. After eating
another hot MRE, changing into our dry clothes,
and pulling out our sleeping pads, it was about
1:30 a.m.
Of
the three checkpoints where we would sleep during
the race, Dupont was by far the best. We were able
to find a grassy spot about 100 yards from the river
and boat ramp. This meant that the comings and goings
of other teams wouldn't bother us. Also, the gentle
and constant hum of the Dupont plant was the perfect
background noise to drown out the busy thoughts
running through my head.
Total
Distance paddled on Day Three: 82 miles